Several years ago, one of my favourite restaurants in Hirafu caved in to the pressure of foreign money and sold their premises but not their ambition or vision.

Big Cliff, as it was known, has taken to Kutchan like it has always been there, serving absolutely delicious meals in their small restaurant just to the left of Ekimae-dori, and is now known as Enya.

They offer a selection of yakitori (grilled chicken on a stick), fish both raw and cooked, and salads from both Japanese and English menus plus beer, sake and sho-chu in a really chilled and relaxed environment.

Open from 5.30 to midnight Monday to Saturday, bookings are recommended and a little Japanese always helpful.